Getaways: Thousand Islands Print E-mail
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A summer escape...in your backyard
by Jelena Marelj
Pristine pine islands cradled by navy blue waters; European-inspired castles overlooking granite cliffs and limestone coves; quaint 19th century waterfront towns -- these fantasy landscapes are right in your backyard. Forget the Caribbean's glamorous coastlines; this is island living at its best.

Dotting the St. Lawrence River between Kingston and Brockville, the Thousand Islands (1,865 islands, to be exact) are steeped in history, myth and raw beauty. And no wonder; the international seaway where they are found has seen the likes of Champlain and Cartier, and was known as the "Garden of the Great Spirit" to the Iroquois tribes who inhabited the area.

The best way to experience the Thousand Islands is by taking a cruise down the river. Sights include the opulent hotels and summer homes of Millionaire's Row, the playground of the American elite in the early 20th century; the Thousand Islands International Bridge; and the array of islands drenched in verdure.

If you're itching for some independent exploration, a self-guided tour of Boldt and Singer castles will do the trick. George C. Boldt's was a Prussian born, self-made millionaire and manager of New York's Waldorf Astoria Hotel. He constructed the six storey castle as a testament to his love for his wife Louise, and what a testament: the place is adorned with ornate Italian gardens, a triumphal Roman arch, and some of the finest sculptures, mosaics and tapestries imported from Europe. For mystery lovers, Frederick Gilbert Bourne's Singer Castle features labyrinthine tunnels, secret passageways, tipping portraits and wall grates for spying. It was inspired by Sir Walter Scott's novel Woodstock, and designed by architect Ernest Flagg of Chrysler building fame.

Some of the world's best freshwater shipwreck diving
is to be had here. All you need is a bathing suit ...
and a sense of adventure.

If you'd rather explore the blue depths of the St. Lawrence, some of the world's best freshwater shipwreck diving is to be had right off the coast of Brockville, where the wrecks of the steel freighter Keystorm, the Lillie Parsons and the Robert Gaskin can be found. All you need is a bathing suit. A sense of adventure wouldn't hurt either.

Water sport enthusiasts can have their pick of kayaking, canoeing, sailing, jet-skiing or fishing (the area is a Mecca for record-sized muskie, bass and pike.) Those who want to keep their feet dry can tackle the hiking trails of Charleston Lake Provincial Park, or camp out in the St. Lawrence Islands National Park. Bird watchers should look out for rare ospreys and wild eagles on Wolfe Island. The 37-km Waterfront Trail lining the river from Brockville to Gananoque is ideal for cycling.

Sounds exhausting I know, but luckily, relaxation abounds in the region's small towns and cities. Brockville, the "City of the Thousand Islands" is made for strolling. Sip afternoon tea in Edwardian decadence at Fulford Mansion, or swing to the melodies of the annual Jazz festival. Gananoque's historic waterfront village is long on charm. This art-lovers paradise is home to the Thousands Islands Playhouse and the VAGA gallery. In May, "Up the Garden Path" offers free, self-guided tours of artists' homes, studios and gardens. Kingston, Canada's pre-Confederation capital provides some pleasant eye candy in its limestone buildings and Georgian architecture. History buffs can visit Fort Henry, a 19th Century British military garrison, or Bellevue House, the Italianate villa of Sir John A. Macdonald. The Corrections Canada Museum with its escape paraphernalia, prison history and antique punishment equipment, makes an eerily fascinating visit.

The Thousand Islands can be experienced in a two-week holiday at a rented waterfront cottage, a weekend of picnics and tours with the family, or a romantic dinner cruise. Whatever you choose, you'll be sure to recharge, relax, and experience island living in all its glory.


-----
Having finished her MA in English Literature at McGill, Jelena Marelj currently works as an editor and freelance writer in Montreal.


If You Go
Thousand Islands tourist information
www.thousandislands.com
www.1000islands.com

Brockville's Jazz Festival goes from May 3rd-12th
View the site

Fulford Place
287 King Street East, Brockville
(613) 498-3003
View the site

Kingston
www.cityofkingston.ca
http://tourism.kingstoncanada.com/
http://www.kingstonkiosk.com/

Fort Henry
County Road 2, Kingston
(613) 542-7388
www.forthenry.com

Bellevue House National Historic Site
35 Centre Street, Kingston
(800) 230-0016
View the site

Correctional Service of Canada Museum
555 King St. West
Kingston, Ontario
Open May 1st-October 31st, Mon.-Fri. 9h-16h, weekends and holidays 10h-16h
(613) 530-3122
View the site

Gananoque
www.gananoque.com

Arthur Child Heritage Museum
125 Water Street, Gananoque
(613) 382-2535
www.1000islandsheritagemuseum.com
Gananoque Boat Lines offers one- and three-hour cruises, with options of a stopover at Boldt Castle or a "Lost Ships" cruise featuring side-scan sonar imaging
6 Water St.
Gananoque, Ontario
(888) 717-4837
www.ganboatline.com

Rockport Boat Lines offers one- and two-hour cruises, with options of a sunset dinner cruise or a castle tour
23 Front Street
Rockport, Ontario
(800) 563-8687
www.rockportcruises.com

Thousand Islands Skydeck on Hill Island has a 130-meter panoramic view of the islands
(613) 659-2285
www.1000islandsskydeck.com

Self-guided, free tours of artists' homes, studios and gardens can be found at www.tiarts.org

Boldt Castle
Heart Island, USA
Open daily May 13th-October 9th, 10h to 18h30 (19h30 in July and August)
(800) 847-5263
www.boldtcastle.com

Singer Castle
Dark Island, USA
Open weekends May 19th-October 7th, daily June 23rd-September 3rd, 10h to 17h, OR by appointment
(877) 327-5475
www.singercastle.com


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