A Montreal institution is worth the trip to the 'burbs
by Penelope Laurence
To truly experience Montreal - at least in a gastronomical sense - there are certain things everyone knows you must try: a Schwartz's smoked meat sandwich; La Belle Province poutine; and a Fairmount or Saint Viateur bagel hot from the oven. But if you want to taste Montreal as only the locals know it, you'll need to take your taste buds on a journey to the 'burbs.
Destination: Dic Ann's. Mission: One of Montreal's best burger experiences.
Dic Ann's Hamburgers has been around since 1954, yet to this day not one of its 10 Montreal locations is listed in the phone directory. Nor are they easy to get to if you don't have a car; I endured two lengthy metro rides followed by a long walk along a cold, dark highway with a friend who was convinced we were going the wrong way, before the fluorescent sign appeared like a beacon before us.
But the odyssey was worth it; this place defies the old "location, location, location" adage. Instead, Dick and Ann Potenza's joint has stayed in business for 53 years because a select niche of Montrealers worship at its Formica and wood-panelled altars. How many other burger places can boast a customer of the year who holds an uncanny resemblance to Colonel Sanders?
Dic Ann's Hamburgers has been around since 1954,
yet to this day not one of its 10 Montreal locations
is listed in the phone directory.
Stepping into a Dic Ann's restaurant is like entering a time warp; it's the kind of place you wouldn't be surprised to find Jan Brady working behind the counter. An abundance of yellows and browns dominate the décor, and kooky placemats regale visitors with the history of the hamburger. (Fun fact: America's first hamburger drive-in was called The Pig Stand.)
Everyone who loves Dic Ann's told me the reason is its hot meat sauce; a delicate combination of two recipes the couple brought with them from Rochester, New York. My friend instructed me to get the original hamburger ($1.95) but upon perusing the simple menu I found the prospect of the "Hi-boy" ($2.35 with lettuce and tomato) irresistible.
But no one warned me that these burgers are flat - almost as flat as a CD, I kid you not. My Hi-boy came in at a lofty two centimetres, fit neatly in the palm of my hand. If this was high, I would hate to see their version of a little boy. Next to my friend's original hamburger, my choice looked flat, tiny, and even a little bit ashamed of itself. I must admit I was slightly disappointed.
That is, until I took a bite. The soft, squished bread was the perfect companion for the crunchy lettuce. And the spicy sauce that dribbled down my chin was absolutely heavenly.
Obviously I had to order another, this time with double sauce. I asked Dick and Ann's grandson, Nino, for the secret behind the famous recipe, but no such luck. "We wouldn't be where we are today if we told everyone what our special sauce was about," he replied with a smile.
You'll just have to make the trek and try it yourself. If this is the real taste of Montreal, it's delicious.
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Penelope Laurence is a television script editor and freelance journalist based in Montreal..
A Juicy Secret
Dic Ann's Hamburgers
Montreal North: 10910, boul. Pie IX
Chomedey: 1345, boul. Curé-Labelle
Anjou: 6110, boul. Louis-H-Lafontaine
Terrebonne: 1417, chemin Gascon
St-Jérôme: 253, rue de Martigny, exit 43 E
Repentigny: 355, rue Notre-Dame
Auteuil: 4680, boul. des Laurentides
Dorion: 280, boul. Harwood
Longueuil: 1640, chemin du Tremblay
NDG: 6224, rue St-Jacques
www.dicanns.com
Open 11 am - 8 pm on weekdays, 11 am - 10 pm on weekends. Closed Mondays and, at selected restaurants, also on Tuesdays. |
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