Montreal Magazine

From the editor

It's all about the bagel!
by


From the editor

It's about the bagel

I refuse to buy bagels in bulk from any supermarket in the city. Having lived in Mile End for more than 10 years and literally having two of the city's premier bagel shops - St-Viateur and Fairmount - right in the neighbourhood, I can't bring myself to place a bag of pre-packaged six in my shopping cart. I figure, why buy bagels that may be a couple of days old when I know I can get them fresh, straight from the oven? I don't seem to have this kind of territorial loyalty with any other kind of bread. I'll occasionally buy Première Moisson or au Pain Doré breads at stores they distribute to, no problem. But bagel? I'd rather go without.

I've asked myself why this is and I can't pin it down. I also see it in others. Why do people drive out of their way, double parking on Mile End streets you can barely single park on, to pick up their hot dozen? Is it to experience that sweet indelible aroma of freshly baked bagel in a paper bag coming from the backseat on the ride home? Or is it that special one or two they'll pick from the bag and eat before they even get home?

Whatever the reason, people come back for more. They have been for decades. St-Viateur Bagel has been at its location since 1957, and Fairmount Bagel's origins go back to 1919. Freshness and goodness rule and these two pillars have proven that with so much history behind them, there's no messing with a winning formula. Sure, both have expanded their operations to include catering, online ordering and whatnot, but the flagship shops at their respective locations are still what they've always been: no frills, no (apparent) marketing strategy, no Interac machine and no nonsense. These places, open 24/7, have survived because they've stayed true to themselves. And perhaps, that's their ultimate appeal - why we go out of our way, make the extra pit stop and pay them a visit. That and the fact that they make good bagel.

You can read more about St-Viateur and Fairmount bagel shops in this month's Neighbourhoods.

See you next month.

Lora Perrone
Publisher

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