© The Ritz-Carlton, Montréal

It was in the early 1840s that England's Duchess of Bedford began having tea, bread and light sweets sent to her boudoir around four o'clock to tide her over until dinner, which was served much later that night. She started inviting her friends to her afternoon tea and it eventually became an enduring social ritual.

Montreal's Ritz-Carlton Hotel has been serving a formal afternoon tea since opening in 1913. It takes place in the hotel's restaurant, Café de Paris, but in the summer, guests can also leisurely sip their tea in the tranquil Jardin du Ritz.

What is truly special about afternoon tea is its decadence and ceremonious presentation. The Ritz uses Wedgwood china - the teapot alone costs about $160 - and the tables are set with silver sugar bowls and an assortment of jams.

Patrons have 14 different teas to choose from, including Darjeeling, jasmine blossom and the Ritz's own Blue Sapphire blend. The afternoon tea fare used to be à la carte, but now the offerings are bundled into four packages, which makes the experience less intimidating for the tea novice.

Afternoon tea is for anyone willing to afford themselves a pause from their hectic lives.

The most popular and authentic of these packages is the Ritz-Carlton Royal Tea. At $34 per person, it opens with either a glass of champagne or a bubbly-based cocktail like a mimosa or Bellini. The procession continues with a three-tiered silver platter filled with sweet and savoury delicacies. Scones with Devonshire cream top the tower; finger sandwiches of chicken, egg, salmon and cucumber are in the middle; and delicate bite-sized pastries like éclairs and tarts are on the bottom.

When guests are ready, the teapots are brought to the table. Waiters strain the initial servings into fine bone china teacups, and will gladly warm up the pots as needed. A bowl of fresh strawberries completes the menu.

While tea is an elegant production, it's no longer just for the elite. Now it's for anyone willing to afford themselves a pause from their hectic lives. More men are going than before, and some companies are choosing it for their employees as a social alternative to happy hour.

"I think back in the '70s and '80s it was seen as a snobbish or passé way to spend time," says Falk Norris, former executive director of food and beverage at the Ritz. "Now, people are reaching back to partake in old traditions."

Intergenerational gatherings are common. Often you'll see a grandmother enjoying a cup of tea with her daughter or granddaughter, especially on Mother's Day. Sometimes it's an event to celebrate a baby shower or marriage, and women often take their daughters out at the end of the academic year or for graduation.

Nowadays, it's hard to imagine luxuriating over a cup of Earl Grey, but when you're sipping it from a china teacup with friends or family, the experience becomes something much more special.

Tea is served Monday to Saturday from 3:30 pm to 5 pm, and on Sunday from 4 pm to 5:30 pm. 1228, rue Sherbrooke Ouest; Phone: (514) 842-4212.