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Food: West-African Cuisine |
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La Khaïma brings the sands and Saharan hospitality of Mauritania to Mile End
by Susan Krashinsky
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Photos by Susan Krashinsky
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When you begin to make a habit of recommending La Khaïma to your friends -- and trust me, it will become a habit -- you'd better be ready to give a small geography lesson.
Montrealers are a pretty world-weary bunch, with restaurants on every corner from every corner of the world. Many of us can dine on Tibetan, Brazilian, Polish or Ethiopian fare, all within walking distance (or a short drive) from home. Yet despite our gastronomic multiculturalism, some have never even heard of Mauritania. This is where Ould Atigh, the eminently loveable proprietor of La Khaïma, was born and raised; and his tasty offerings take their inspiration from the cuisine of Mauritania and its West-African neighbours.
The ever-cheerful Atigh is just as likely to welcome you in traditional Mauritanian costume as in a sweater and jeans, but one thing is for certain: he will welcome you. Khaïma means tent in Arabic; and the cozy atmosphere will make you feel right at home. I suggest bypassing the tables, if possible, and settling into the ample cushions in the back instead.
"My philosophy is always 'think big, work small,'" Atigh tells me over a cup of bisap, the hibiscus juice that he manufactures on-site. He laments the big business ethic that favours money over people, and takes great joy in hands-on participation in his community and in every aspect of the restaurant. As far as Atigh is concerned, the future belongs not to big corporations, but to those who serve up quality and take more joy in what they eat. There are echoes in this of the Slow Food movement's viewpoint, which advocates against the homogenisation and biological damage that fast food culture has wreaked on the world. But Atigh is no proselytiser; he simply wants to contribute to the neighbourhood in which his restaurant has operated for two and a half years, and to continue having fun doing what he does best.
Another usual suspect is the Senegalese stew with authentic African spices, full of wholesome vegetables like cabbage and carrots in a base of crushed tomato and peanut sauce.
In addition to the juice, which is available in jugs to take home, La Khaïma will soon offer hibiscus jam, which is completely natural and sugar-free (it is sweetened with figs), and small jars of home-made hot sauce.
My meal began with harira, a spiced bean and vegetable soup, and a delightful spicy carrot salad. The menu varies from day to day, though tajine, a slow-cooked dish of tender, delicately spiced meat often makes an appearance. Another usual suspect is maffé, a Senegalese stew with authentic African spices, full of wholesome vegetables like cabbage and carrots in a base of crushed tomato and peanut sauce. Traditionally maffé includes some kind of meat, but this joint is thoroughly veggie-friendly and so their version leaves it out. Noncommittal vegetarians can indulge in the fish dishes that regularly make an appearance on the list of daily specials. La Khaïma is also open on weekends for a brunch that the chef describes only as "powerful." But prospective visitors should not be intimidated; though all of the food features plenty of spices, there's never so much that it overpowers more timid palates.
"This is one of the first things I learned to do," Atigh says as he performs the tea ceremony. He serves me a time-honoured brew of green tea and mint that is the cornerstone of Saharan hospitality. Atigh has taken what he learned at home and put up his own tent right here in Montreal. If you haven't visited yet, it's time for a geography lesson.
INFORMATION
La Khaïma. 142, rue Fairmount (east of av. du Parc); tel: (514) 948-9993
Open:
Tuesday to Friday: Noon - 2 pm and 5 pm - 10 pm;
Saturday and Sunday: 10 am - 2 pm and 5 pm - 10 pm |
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