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| Photos by Susan Krashinsky |
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Those who know the neighbourhood will tell you that Mile End got its name because back in the day, it was quite literally the end of the road.
One walk down Bernard Street, the busy thoroughfare where Mile End meets Outremont, is enough to convince anyone just how much this area has changed. What was once the outskirts, a poorer neighbourhood with little activity, is now a vibrant, trendy neighbourhood boasting a veritable cornucopia of diversions. On just one street you can find a fromagerie, a parfumerie, a mattress store, hair salons, a kosher bakery, an organic bakery, a smoked meat deli, cafes, bars, restaurants of every kind, a tea store, clothing boutiques, pet stores, and, this being Montreal, naturally scores of dépanneurs.
In recent years, a trend has popped up called the "staycation" - a holiday that doesn't require suitcases or passports, and that allows busy urbanites to enjoy their own cities. If any street in Montreal is conducive to a staycation, it's Bernard. This is a place to be lazy, to walk slowly, savour the sites and admire it all over a cup of coffee or a warm meal. The cafes, whose terrasses flood the sidewalks, were practically made for crossword puzzles and weekend newspapers. In a word, Bernard is comfy.
The cafes, whose terrasses flood the sidewalks, were practically made for crossword puzzles and weekend newspapers.
Anatomy of a Staycation
- Wake up no earlier than 11 am. Wander to Senzala, a Brazilian restaurant whose breakfasts inspire hyperbole in even the most jaded of brunch gourmands. Find a seat on the patio if it's warm enough, and take time to contemplate which type of cheese would make the finest start to your day.
- While digesting, saunter to Local 23, a well-stocked used clothing shop with a few items by local designers that are worth a peek (their sister shop on St. Viateur has a bigger selection of the latter.) On the way, pause to look north at the old factory and water tower by the railroad tracks, which cast a handsome silhouette against the sky.
- Turn back west and stroll a ways until you hit the unassuming entrance to Parc St. Viateur (hint: it's next to a supermarket.) Walk around the pond, the bridge and the pavilion, and sit for a while. If it's too cold, any nearby café is a good alternative. Reading is recommended.
- As you walk west, the ratio of tiny dogs and designer baby carriages steadily increases. Yes, Montreal has yuppies; but we do yuppies better than anyone else. Treat yourself at Bilboquet, where the sorbets and ice creams are among the best in the city. If you are lucky enough to snag a seat on the bustling terrasse, enjoy a bout of people-watching.
- Double back, shopping as you go. If you can stomach it after all that gluttony, there are restaurants to fit every dinner need. If not, remember that it is perfectly reasonable to drink dinner. Stop at Café Romolo for its relaxed vibe, pool tables and good music. Feeling snazzy? Head to Whiskey Café to indulge in a romantic atmosphere and an impressive array of cigars and scotches - not to mention the urinals, which are apparently spectacular. However you choose to top off your day, one thing is certain: this chic street is miles away from the end of the road.
If you go
- Restaurant Senzala
177, rue Bernard Ouest, (514) 274-1464; open for breakfast Thursday to Sunday 9 am to 3 pm, every night for dinner 5 pm to 10 pm
- Local 23
23, rue Bernard Ouest, (514) 270-9333
- Parc St. Viateur
Just south of Bernard, off Bloomfield or Querbes
- Bilboquet
1311, rue Bernard, (514) 276-0414; open daily (except January and February) from 7 a.m. to midnight
- Café Romolo
272, rue Bernard Ouest, (514) 272-5035
- Whiskey Café
5800, boul. St. Laurent, (514) 278-2646, www.whiskycafe.ca; open Monday to Friday 5 pm to 3 am, Saturday 6 pm to 3 am, Sunday 7 pm to 3 am
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