Seeing (or not seeing) is believing at O.NOIR Restaurant
by Susan Campbell
It is a bone-chilling January night when I enter the elegant and simple anteroom of O.NOIR. A thick black curtain guards the entrance to the restaurant, giving it a distinctly theatrical feel. Anything that emits light, such as cell phones and watches, must be stored in lockers.
This is because diners at O.NOIR are kept quite literally in the dark. In a unique social experiment aimed at enhancing the senses -- and showing sighted people how the visually impaired live in our world -- this is a spot where you can dine well and do good. 5% of O. NOIR's profits go to organizations like Horizon Travail and Nazareth Louis Braille.
Since I won't be able to read once I enter the pitch-black dining room, I order ahead. Customers can choose from a set menu or a surprise choice which changes every month.
All O.NOIR servers are visually impaired to some degree. I meet Guilluame Thibeault, who is to be my eyes for the evening. His outgoing personality and sense of humor instantly put me at ease. I place my hand on his shoulder and he leads me past the curtain.
Though I was aware of the concept, nothing could have prepared me for this. The word "dark" doesn't begin to describe the O.NOIR's interior. I am surprised at my gut reaction -- disorientation, panic -- but Guilluame senses my fear and comforts me. "Relax. Just hang on," he says. I resume shuffling penguin-like behind him through the abyss. "Attention! Attention!" is the frequent call to alert people that servers are coming through. The only contact I have with other diners is the hearty laughter that resounds from all corners.
I first visit the kitchen to observe the process. The servers' expertise is remarkable. I am equally impressed with chef Marco Sala, whose enthusiasm is infectious. He explains the dilemmas in creating the ultimate cuisine for dining in the dark.
The only contact I have with other diners is the
hearty laughter that resounds from all corners.
"Presentation is so important that I feel like a pro boxer with one hand tied behind my back," Sala says. "Everything must taste great while at the same time be extremely aromatic, wonderfully textured, and easy to eat. I had to remove the lime from the salmon because people were eating it whole instead of squirting it on their fish! It has been a learning curve, but I love the challenge."
I thought my sneak peek behind the scenes would make things easier, but I end up using my hands like everyone else. Everything is delicious. When the juice of the Portobello mushrooms squirts down my sleeve, I just laugh, secure in the knowledge that no one can see me. This is definitely fun. After dinner, Catherine the barkeep and I decide there should be surprise cocktails as well. I suggest names such as Shot in the Dark.
Though only open in Montreal since September 2006, owner Moe Alameddine's creative and philanthropic experience is already a success story. Nowadays, O.NOIR is usually booked solid two weeks in advance.
As I reenter the cold night, I suddenly miss the comfort of the womb-like darkness I left behind. But although Ste. Catherine's neon expanse looks garish, I am very grateful to be able to see it.
| Heighten Your Senses |
O.NOIR
1631, rue Ste. Catherine Ouest
Open 7 days a week; 1st service 7:45 p.m., 2nd service 9 p.m.
For reservations call (514) 937-9727,
email
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with your phone number,
or visit www.onoir.com.
Scaloppini Surprise
O.NOIR's Chef Marco Sala was kind enough to share one of his surprise dishes with us. Try this at home (and eat it with your eyes closed!)
Take 3 veal cutlets, pound until thin, dredge in flour and fry in a bit of oil and butter. Set aside.
Surprise sauce:
In a frying pan, mix together
½cup water
½ cup white wine
Two pinches of freshly grated ginger
Squeeze a quarter of a fresh lemon into mix, whisk and add ½ cup veal broth.
Bring to a boil stirring constantly until it is reduced and thickened.
Add fresh ground pepper and serve over warm cutlets.
Serves one.
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