The home of the American Revolution offers up more than just landmarks
by Susan Krashinsky
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| Photos courtesy of Susan Krashinsky |
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"Where's our line?" I cried in panic, staring down at my feet. The red line that had been such a steadfast companion had suddenly abandoned us.
If you're like me, you can only log so much time in museums before a vacation starts to feel more like work. Weather permitting, you'd much rather eschew the tourist pamphlets and be in the fresh air, walking around and getting a feel for the city you've come to. If this is the case, then Boston's Freedom Trail is for you.
Ostensibly an educational tour of important places associated with the American Revolution, the Freedom Trail is more an homage to the most beautiful parts of Boston. Since walking the trail doesn't require you to enter any of the landmarks on the way, each visitor has control over how much time, if any, they spend in museums. In my case, this left plenty of time for a Sam Adams draft beer (in historical reverence, I assure you) along the way.
"There it is," my friend said, pointing across the street to where the line resumed (accompanied by a humiliatingly large sign complete with an arrow that read "Freedom Trail").
An influx of wealthy young Bostonians has swankified
the North End a bitbut, for the most part,
the neighbourhood's charm remains intact.
Having picked up the trail at "America's oldest public park," the Boston Common, we had already moved by the State House, two of the prettiest old cemeteries I've ever seen, the site of the Boston Tea Party, and scores of other picturesque and historic spots. There was even a tucked-away cobblestone square where a number of taverns were clustered together. They had a certain revolution era-charm that called for signs out front featuring the words "ye" and "olde". We were now entering the North End.
During the American Revolution, this neighbourhood was the home of Paul Revere. As more people came to Boston's shores in the pursuit of happiness, it became the starting point for a number of immigrant populations; but the Italian community gave the area its character as it's seen today. As is the way of things, an influx of wealthy young Bostonians has swankified things a bit; but for the most part the North End's charm remains: The day I visited, a quaint Christmas parade meandered its way through the streets. Old ladies leaned out of the windows of their squat brick buildings to watch the festivities. I sampled my first ever cannoli. The sun shone brightly on the North End church where Paul Revere's two lanterns signalled that the British were coming by sea. It was all too perfect.
It was also quite a hike, and after doing the last part of the trail, we looped right back into the North End to rest our feet at Pushcart Café. The waitress at this unassuming joint wasn't at all fazed when we announced our intention to drink lunch, and our beers arrived with speed. But upon seeing the neighbouring table's orders, we couldn't resist the pizza, which was exquisite.
After an experience like this, you could stay in downtown Boston for your evening out. But if you're like me, you prefer to see where the real people go to kick back. If that's the case, take the laughably inefficient subway out to Washington Square in Brookline, where the Publick House serves up quality beers from around the world. Good food, good brew, and nary a museum visit in sight? Now this is a vacation.
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